Salvador (by Joe)

Having read a very positive write-up in our travel guide, I've been on something of a quest since we arrived in South America to get to Salvador, half-way up the Brazilian coast.

So, loving Brazil and deciding to stay longer than we'd initially planned, we went almost 1000km beyond our original itinerary to get here. It has not disappointed.

Now the capital of Bahia State, Salvador was the first capital of Portuguese Brazil from 1549 through to 1763 (when it passed to Rio, then Brasilia). It's now a major industrial port with much poverty and many favelas. But, as a legacy of its days as capital, there remains a terrific old centre, which stands high on a 100 metre cliff overlooking Bahia Todos Os Santos, the largest bay in Brazil.

The old centre is fabulous. It is currently undergoing a major restoration project funded jointly by local government and UNESCO. Parts have been renovated, but the majority remains a wonderful ramshackle pile of crumbling colonial architecture.

Importantly, renovated or not, it all remains 'real' - the buildings are lived and worked in. It may be tourist-friendly, but this is no sheltered theme park.

The city is noted for its strong African ties, especially with Angola, being the main port through which the majority of some 4.5 million slaves passed up until 1888, when the trade was abolished. After 1888 many remained, and the city is now widely referred to as the 'African Soul of South America' - a touch poetic perhaps, but the food, music, people and even the religion, are authentically African.

Above all, Salvador is recognised as the party capital of Brazil. We arrived on Tuesday afternoon, in time for the big night of the week, when thousands of locals mingle with tourists to live music and open-air bars on the cobbled squares and streets of the old town.

It is rainy season here, but even a couple of heavy tropical downpours did little to dampen the volume of the music, the energy of the dancing and the strength of spirits (both human and alcoholic). Drinking our fair share of caipirinha (the local sugar, lime and cachaca rum) and mingling with the partying locals - sometimes under cover, sometimes in rain - it was quite a night.

The annual carnival is held early February and is regarded as the biggest in Brazil (including the Rio Carnival). Some 2 million people party through three areas of the city 24-7 for a week. One can only imagine the atmosphere and the difficulty of getting some sleep ...

Relatively few tourists come up to Salvador. With so much poverty and so many favelas, it has a justifiably dangerous reputation. Of course we have had to watch our pockets, taken heed of warnings from our (excellent) hostel not to show our camera around town and kept well clear of certain areas.

But it is well worth the hassle. Salvador has been great - the energy, the music, the colour, the unique culture, and even the sense of danger have all excited. For us, Salvador epitomises perfectly so much that we imagine - and want - Brazil to be.

Oh, and there is some awesome south Atlantic coastline, too.

Joe