Behind the beach (by Laura)

Goa has provided a complete change of pace, colour and culture on this trip.

The beaches and inland regions are undeniably beautiful and the people, as ever, are warm and hospitable.

We've tried to see a little of north and south, which in themselves have completely different characters.

Perhaps unsurprisingly, after weeks of so much diversity and stimulation, Goa at first seemed a little bland and less 'raw' than our experiences of previous weeks. The people we met, though charming, have also seen so much of western culture and tourism, that our chats with them seemed to lack the energy we'd felt in other places.

The way in which the state is run and the government's approach to the increasing levels of tourism is perhaps the most fascinating aspect.

North Goa, with the main tourist resorts of Baga and Calangute and then the notorious villages of Anjuna and Vagator (big hippy and party scenes for years), seems to have become a bit of a focus for the Goan government. They are apparently trying to attract the more affluent holiday-maker (we backpackers are tight with our money) and so clamping down on the party scene. We visited one bar (only allowed to open from 6-10pm) where there were police with guns lined up outside the door and they sent sniffer dogs round half way through the evening- hardly conducive to enjoying your sunset beer.

Of course there are still cows, as the place would just feel strange without them.

Arriving in Palolem in the south (see right), we noticed a huge amount of construction going on and presumed it was due to the ever-increasing popularity of the place. In fact, it turned out that everyone was simply in the process of reconstructing the bamboo 'coco huts', which line the beach, in preparation for the new season - the government obliges the hotels to take them all down at the end of every season and then build them again, requiring new licences to be granted. This seems incredibly labour intensive and expensive for business (I'm not aware of any subsidy that the businesses receive).

Presumably the political motivation is a mixture of wanting to keep the place from becoming over-developed like the north and losing its feel, as well as the guaranteed annual income this provides for the government. They certainly seem to be micro-managing the future of the area.

It does, however, make you admire the industry of the people who work here and also means that every beach hut resort and restaurant is continually innovating and keeping up with the Joneses. It's a beautiful spot.

Laura